Langkawi, Malaysia, Day 118

Half moon over Langkawi near midday.

Langkawi, like Weh Island, does not seem to be overrun with cruise ships but that does not mean that they are not tourist friendly and economically somewhat dependent on tourism to maintain their standard of living. Five star resorts abound including another one still under construction at the pier where our tender took us. Apparently the majority of tourist fly here as the port could not accommodate even our smaller ship. In order to go ashore we first boarded one of our life boats serving as a tender for a twenty minute ride to the pier, then walk some half a mile or so to our tour bus in 90 plus degree heat and humidity. As we neared the bus, I spotted the above moon in the sky. Our excursion, Langkawi Overview, was worth the effort many times over.

On our way thru town to Eagle Square I was comforted by the sighting of first a Baptist Church, then a few doors down, a United Methodist Church and just around the corner from them, a Seventh Day Advantest Church. All three a stones throw from each other and not a Temple or Mosque in sight. Like I said, comforting. Many of our guides have said they were Christian but I hadn't seen a regular Church in quite awhile. On this day our guide was extremely informative. He shared with us that in Malaysia everyone works, everyone is educated, everyone is housed, everyone is attended to medically; there is no crime, litter, graffiti, drugs nor squalor. (I saw nothing to dispute his statements.) God made this place a lush tropical jungle and the Malaysian government is turning it into Utopia. Good to hear his patriotism as he shared his knowledge of Langkawi. Like the other stops we've made along the old spice trade route; Dutch, Portuguese, & Brits have laid claim to Malaysia over the centuries. Now they are proudly independent and appear to be thriving. I wanted to ask how all these things were financed and most importantly, how do they get everyone to work? Instead, I simply accepted his remarks. The dense jungle here does not appear as lush as Weh Island, probably due to differing types of trees. Here there are more fruit bearing trees, rubber trees, and other vegetation somewhat less densely packed. Still a tropical paradise, however.

First we drove to Eagle Square for a photo op. Eagles, as well as lions, are a very important part of the local culture and as such are honored with a huge statue prominently displayed in the harbor across the bay from a beautiful lighthouse. Naturally one must walk a considerable distance in order take photos of either. Again, well worth the effort. Pictures taken, we proceeded to Budaya craft complex. We have been inundated with craft booths/tents/stands/malls/markets/etc. at virtually every port but none like this one. It was beautiful, upscale, clean, organized, fantastic and air conditioned! YAY! All the merchandise was made in Malaysia if not Langkawi itself.

Would have bought this dress if they could have included the figure.

After a pleasant shopping experience, we proceeded to a rubber plantation to learn how rubber is harvested. For starters, it is not done in the noonday heat but rather in the relative cool of the predawn hours. The plantation we visited had some very old trees that were ending their productivity and were conveniently located near the roadway so that we did not have to venture too far into the forest for the demonstration. A brief explanation of the procedure was given, then a young woman knelt beside one of the old trees, hammered an old rusty square nail into the tree trunk with a rock (so did she really hammer or rock?), inserted a piece of bark about an inch and a half long into the square hole she had made, then stood and cut a spiral gash in the bark about half an inch deep, ending just above the funnel inserted into the square hole which directed the white fluid into the drip pot below. Rubber plantations remain a viable source of revenue even after the creation of synthetic rubber used in tires. Real rubber is used in latex - gloves, clothing, etc. The sap/rubber collected from this exhibition is not useable as it hardens too quickly in the heat of the day. That is why the lucky people who do this for a living do so in the wee small hours of the night. Don't ask me how they see to work as that was not explained. Interesting, very interesting.

From the rubber tree plantation, we drove to Mahsuri Tomb. In route, our guide related the story of Mahsuri and her relevance to Malay culture which I shall retell to the best of my understanding and memory. It seems that some three hundred or so years ago this most beautiful of babies was born to a couple of some prominence in the area. As she grew in stature, she also grew in beauty, both physical and within. She fell in love with and married her handsome young prince. They had a son. Soon after the birth of their son, her husband was called to war. She and her son stayed in the village of her husband's family while he was away. Motherhood suited Mahsuri as she grew more beautiful with the passing of every day. She was adored by the entire community for her beauty. Up popped the green-eyed jealousy of her sister-in-law. When the husband returned from war, his sister told him that Mahsuri had been unfaithful to him in his absence. No evidence was presented, no trial, no questioning of Mahsuri, nothing except a speedy execution of Mahsuri, this person quilty of nothing other than being more beautiful and adored than her sister-in-law. (And you may think you have in-law problems!) Just prior to her death she said. "If I am innocent, this land will not flourish for seven generations, after the last of the seven generations pass, it shall then prosper." The last of the seven generations passed in 1987. Since that time Langkawi has indeed prospered. Fresh flowers were on her tomb that day as I suspect they are every day. Also at her village we were treated to a musical performance by beautiful young ladies dressed in local traditional attire.

On our route back to the ship we stopped at a roadside fruit stand for the opportunity to see/touch/smell/purchase the infamous local fruit, name of which I forget though it has been touted often. Seems most public places ban this fruit due to it's most pungent smell. Other noted characteristics are it's tendency to make one's mouth red, burn one's throat when consumed, etc. I shall gladly cede my share to the locals. While at the fruit stand, it came a cloud burst reminding us all that we were in the tropics. Our driver skillfully navigated those narrow, well paved switchback roads to transport us back to our home away from home, The Insignia. The scenery was spectacular, the people beautiful, the folklore entertaining, the weather perfectly tropical! Visit Malaysia, luxury awaits you.

This Is Someday! Visit Malaysia!