Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

Ha Long Bay is located in the Gulf of Tonkin very near the border with China 106 miles east of Hanoi. NEVER would I have dreamed I would ever identify those locations as places I have visited. There was a time when those places were constant nightly dinner companions courtesy of either Huntley/Brinkley or Walter Cronkite. A lifetime or so ago. Things and times change. Vietnam today is a vibrant, modern, prosperous capitalist-socialistic country in which the vast majority of its people were not yet born when that war was raging. Reference to that period, if at all, is to The American War. Different perspective. I find that my emotions are conflicted. I'm delighted to see the Vietnam of today and its successes. I am overwhelmed with emotion by the memories triggered of one of the most tumultuous times in American history.

Ha Long Bay consists of a dense cluster of almost 2 thousand monolithic limestone islands rising spectacularly from the ocean and covered with thick jungle vegetation. Scattered amongst these beautiful islands are an equal number of boats in varying states of disrepair housing fishermen. A fog blanketed the bay as we arrived obscuring the brilliant blues of the sea and sky.

On the afternoon of our first day in Ha Long Bay, Oceania treated their Around The World travelers (some 400 of us) to a Candlelit Cave Evening. These special events are typically very unusual and very lavish affairs not to be missed. But in a cave? I don't do caves well at all! Suffice it to say, I was more than a little hesitant to sign on to spending several hours in a cave. After much consideration, I signed up. My rationale being that any space large enough to seat 400 guests for dinner would not be your average cave, and I was right. Correct decision! A bonus in route to the cave was a drive through Hanoi, a beautiful, modern, prosperous, welcoming city. At the entrance of the cave we were treated to a traditional dragon dance to the accompaniment of firecrackers and a receiving line of young ladies dressed in their traditional long dresses. Fresh flowers arranged in arches softened the entrance to this really big cave. The entertainment was a traditional Vietnamese folk show; the meal, a huge assortment of Vietnamese dishes followed by dancing to American pop music. Our 90 year old grand dame, Jo Anne, was even spotted on the dance floor for a couple of songs. On the trip home our guide told us that ours was the largest event ever held inside the cave and that they were thrilled with the opportunity to host us. It was a perfectly beautiful evening. Dinner inside a cave. Check. Would repeat in a heartbeat.

The next day we pulled up anchor and traveled to Chan May, the nearest port to Da Nang. My excursion of choice for this port was "Da Nang & Marble Beach" consisting of an hour drive into the city then a tour through current day Da Nang with commentary as to what was where during the war. an inside visit of Cham museum, a visit to Han market (which was across a very busy street from a fantastic beautifully manicured beach and walking paths where I chose to spend my time), a drive to fairy mountain for the Buddhist temple, then on to Marble Mountain to see the huge marble lady Buddha statue and finally a photo stop at Quang fishing village. What the brochure did not tell me but the guide did was that the beautifully designed beachfront walking and exercise path was known as China Beach during the war. Da Nang like Hanoi is new, modern, apparently prosper0us, clean and chocked full of luxury hotels practically on every corner. Its citizens are well cared for, hard working and average age something under 45. The only life most of them have known is post the lifting of all embargos by the US, thus free trade flourishes. Our guide this day was insistent that the reunification of Vietnam was complete in every aspect. A different day, a different guide, a different story. More on that another day.

Our first advertised stop was Cham museum housing sculptures from centuries ago - I presume from the Cham era/dynasty/area/??? - the guide for bus 12 this day seemed to be of the opinion that its sole purpose was that we might avail ourselves of the WC, which was clean, I'll give him that and the timing was spot on, but was it really necessary for us to sprint through the museum with all these ages old statues without a word? I think not, but sprint we did.

I have already confessed that rather than visit yet another smelly fish market, I strolled along that perfectly beautiful beach and appreciated all the marble sculptures; the modern design of the bridges over the bay wishing I knew more about engineering and architecture;

and thinking about those young men of ours who spent their last R&R on this beach almost fifty years ago.

Fairy mountain entrance. I actually climbed as far as you can see in this picture, saw nothing but more stairs up an even more narrow opening and wisely deemed that whatever was within would remain a mystery to me. I ever so carefully made my way back down all those steps back to street level avoiding vendors of almost anything and everything and awaited the return of my shipmates. Almost been there. No need to complete or repeat. Someone on our bus did say something about the cave/tunnel traversing three mountains. Not my cup of tea.

Looking up at Marble Mountain across the fishing village. Told you that was one huge statue!

I did, however, persevere and walk at least half a mile in noonday heat (we lucked out as far as weather goes since we have been in Vietnam with highs only in the 90's not 112 like the week before) to explore marble mountain. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and conclude that this mountain and nearby area is the source for all those beautiful marble statues along the beachfront. Beautiful view of the bay, the city beyond the bay, the fishing village below, flowering plants nearby and the huge white marble lady Buddha. Well worth the effort.

Today Is Someday! Live It!