A Stroll with the Elephants

My newest friend, Jumbo.

Good Friday was moving day. Time to say goodbye to wonderous Victoria Falls, the waterfalls, the town and the hotel. But before we left, there was one more adventure five of us chose to take - Wild Horizons Wildlife Sanctuary's Elephant Encounter. In order to take this excursion and meet our 10:00 am check-out, we loaded into a jeep (I don't think any of these vehicles I describe as jeeps were actually Jeeps) at 6:00 am sharp and off we went to the outskirts of this lovely little town. Upon arrival, we were offered coffee by our guide, Amos, while he explained the rules of the day. It was his good fortune that all of this particular group were largely rule followers. After our instructional session, we were transported perhaps a couple of miles into the jungle to Jumbo and his family's early morning hangout. Several handlers were scattered around the elephants and their trail, but I chose to stick close to Amos since he was the one with a rifle. That rifle may not have even been loaded, but I felt safer knowing it was there - just in case! The five of us walked along with the elephants for quite some time (forging a wide stream in the process), giving them space and time to decide we were not going to hurt them. About the time my tongue started to hang out, we stopped and were told it would be permissible to one at a time slowly approach them and pet them. Jumbo was closest and oldest so I related to him and chose him to pet. He and I bonded before the morning was over with him leaning into me as I was petting and saying goodbye to him. We stopped along the way several more times to pet and talk to the elephants. Amos told us all their names and the source, but I remember only Jumbo, JR, Miss Ellie and Mona Lisa. Sorry but the remaining three, I can't recall. Jumbo because of his height and weight. JR and Miss Ellie from the old TV show "Dallas". How old were these elephants? I had to explain to the other four what "Dallas" was. Humbling! No matter their age, the start of this family were rescues from various locations and situations. Eventually the goal is to rehabilitate them to be able to survive in the wild. In the meantime, they perform for us in exchange for their keep. They are NOT harmed in any way so I don't want to hear anything from animal rights activists! Far too soon we were told to jump into our jeeps for a short ride up the hill. Not going to argue with that idea. Why climb when one can ride I say. There was method to their madness. We were taken to one side of the hilltop while the elephants came up the hill and lined up opposite a long log stretching from tree to tree. It was feeding time. Once again Amos explained the rules. We had two buckets of feed and we were to take a double hand full of feed, instruct the elephant as to "trunk up" or "trunk down" and either place the food in their trunk or mouth. All well and good but each of the six adults (we were forbidden to feed Mona Lisa, the baby) had their own idea as to how they wanted their treat and they let us know in no uncertain terms. Not one among us was going to argue with a two ton elephant! Oh, you want it in your trunk? In your trunk it is! In your mouth? Here you go! Miss Ellie ate hers directly out of my cupped hands with her trunk. None of this pouring down the trunk for her, but I will say she hasn't read Miss Manners. My hands were quite messy after she had licked all the crumbs off them. What pure joy!!!!

Say goodbye to Jumbo and his family. Now time to feed the humans. Back to the headquarters we went where we were served a delicious breakfast on a picnic table beside a stream. Just as I was about to take a final sip of my mango juice, a feather fluttered down and into my glass. No worries, Amos had an extra glass. While we were enjoying our breakfast, the camera crew was busily editing the video for our viewing pleasure and purchase. No surprise, we all purchased the entire package and dropped a few coins at the gift shop. All for a good cause! Back on the ship, I see the video has arrived, but I've not had time to download or view it. No need right now as the images are all vividly imprinted on my brain.

We then hurried back to the hotel, collected our luggage, and joined the remainder of our group for our relocation to Chobe Game Lodge in Botswana. Oops, one more thing to see before leaving Victoria Falls - The Big Tree which was coincidentally conveniently located across the street from our driver's local market of choice. All the best stuff here we are told. Okay, we all have to make a living. It was a big tree like many other trees around but I'll give him this, it did have a sign beside it like our historical markers. Didn't get out of the bus so can't attest to why it was famous. Then it was truly time to say goodbye to Victoria Falls.

Apparently our driver had also had a very early wakeup call as I'm told he nodded off a time or two along the way. Fortunately no harm was done other than a slight panic by those who were awake. Two or so hours later, we reach the border between Zimbabwe and Botswana.

We stop and our sleepy driver announces that this is where he leaves us, some fifty feet before the actual border. We also are told to exit the vehicle and enter this little structure where they, Zimbabwe officials, stamp our passports noting our exit from their country. Back outside we are told we must step into this tin pan of filthy solution to disinfect our shoes. Whatever you say, Sir. And oh by the way, if you have any shoes in your luggage that you wore in Zimbabwe, "Take one out. It too must be disinfected." Strange, why only one, I walked on both feet, but the man said "One" so one it is. I hand him one shoe of one of the pairs I had worn in Zimbabwe. He looks at me like I'm some kind of idiot and points to my open bag and says, "That one too." Obviously we were not speaking the same version of English. Okay, everyone's shoes disinfected, we move to the next structure on the other side of the street to the Botswana Immigration Office. All seventeen of our group and several others in another group dutifully lined up to present our passports only to learn that in addition to our passports, to enter their country we must also present our yellow fever inoculation card. I and six others in our group, had this card! Yay for me! But what about the rest of the group? Up steps Victoria, our fearless leader who also was lacking said card, to save the day. No worries, we will simply email the ship for copies of said cards. Not so fast, there is no internet here. After all we are in the middle of Africa! I have no idea how she did it, but after much time and negotiation we were all allowed to proceed. What's travel without a few surprises along the way.

I wish to digress a little here so humor me. We all know sand and have used the expression of sandy colored hair, etc. I think I even recall crayons titled "sand". Never again will I limit my thinking as to the color of sand. I have now ingested sand in many many shades of ecru, cream, tan, grey, beige, greige, brown, orange, apricot, red, crimson, and of course, best of all, burnt orange. Sand in my mouth, eyes, nose and ears. Lots and lots of sand. Sand is a tiny particle of dust, not a color.

After more than an hour bouncing along the sand ruts that pass for roads, we arrive at our destination, Chobe Game Lodge where we are greeted by our host and lodge manager, Ruth. While awaiting our room assignments, Ruth gives us the lay of the land. DO NOT freely roam the grounds early morning, dusk, or night. You MUST call for an escort as this is first and foremost a wild game reserve! Therefore, wild game roam freely any where they wish. Also, do not leave windows or doors ajar. Otherwise, enjoy. And enjoy we did for forty-eight glorious hours.

Naturally we were served a delicious lunch and drinks of our choosing before retiring to our rooms momentarily prior to our sunset river cruise leaving at 4:00. The river, name of which escapes me at this writing serves as the border between Botswana and I think Fifi said Namibia. Most of the countries in Africa seem to have rivers as borders. Makes sense, rivers are natural dividers. Whatever the name of the river and/or country it is spectacular in every way. On this cruise we were treated with elephant families bathing, large herds of antelopes quenching their thirsts. huge numbers of baboons playing in the trees and along the waters' edge, a shy crocodile trying to hide in the grass, more hippos swimming, an eagle perched atop a tree stump, all while we were enjoying happy hour above. After sunset we head back to our lodge for yet another four course meal before saying goodnight to another full day of adventure.

Wake-up call came at 5:00 am with escort to the main lodge for tea/coffee and tidbits at 5:30. Six am found us loaded into our two jeep-like vehicles for our Sunrise Safari. Fifi was our driver as she had commanded the barge/boat the previous afternoon. Fifi was phenomenal! So much so that one of the ladies in our group asked her how she happened to be working in an apparent male dominated field. Surprise, surprise, surprise as Gomer Pyle used to say, she was denied employment as a guide until after Botswana's version of Title 9 came along and even then, she was required to obtain a higher score on the exams. She did and we are better served by her. Some things are indeed universal.

By dawn we had arrived at an apparently well known gathering area for giraffes. About six giraffes preened, posed and patiently waited for us to finish our photo session then casually moved along. Next up, a bunch of guineafowl (I looked up the proper spelling of that creature in my newly acquired copy of "The Chobe Companion") were pecking along our pathway. Fifi was unfazed by these creatures but I thought they were quite striking with their charcoal grey speckled wings and body, royal blue neck topped off with a bright red crown. By Sunday noon I too was unimpressed with the guineafowl and the regal Impala. Either their numbers are vast or they are escape artists extraordinare. Next up a Kori Bustard, Botswana's National Bird no less, followed by a lion hiding in the bush, then a pearl-spotted owlet resting on a limb, more aloof warthogs and impalas going about their day, several varieties of birds and finally two lionesses resting in the shade. Back to the lodge to feed the humans breakfast at nine am.

After some down time we either had lunch and then a river safari or vice versa. I simply can't recall the order. While on the midday river cruise I spotted several red-billed teal (brown birds), a family of mongoose playing in the grass, a gaggle of hippos playing hide and seek in the river, dozens of baboons grooming each other on the shore, a few elephant bones stripped of any flesh, another shy crocodile, elephants galore, more strikingly beautiful birds and then it's back to the lodge for another feeding frenzy by the humans. We were served something at least six times a day.

Mother and child at their favorite watering hole.

Late afternoon we're off on another land safari where we saw more of the foregoing amazing creatures. I don't believe one could ever tire of these sightings - the bouncing of the jeeps, sure but not the thrill of the animals! In case you aren't familiar with safari vehicles, let me describe them. Each vehicle has a driver and shotgun seat in front row, a row of three seats approximately two feet higher than the front row, then two more rows of three seats each approximately two feet higher than that immediately ahead. At one point a little step stool accompanied us to aid in entering and exiting the vehicles. For some reason, it seems to have been declared unnecessary as it was nowhere to be seen while I was climbing in and out of that fourth row. Do the math, that back row is easily eight feet high with, as in the first row, three little "steps" spaced inappropriately up the side of the vehicle. I certainly hope that no video exists of my mounts and dismounts. By the final ride to the airport I got lucky and snagged the shotgun seat. Fifi was far too valuable to waste on a mere drive to the airport so we were assigned a nice young man whom I had not met. We were chatting about his dreams for the future and marital prospects as we drove along the pathway when a large number of baboons decided they needed to be on the other side. He braked and then as if he needed to explain, he turned to me and said, "I stop for my cousins." To which I immediately responded, "Well IF they are your cousins, they're mine too." He smiled his really nice smile and quietly said "Thank you". I pray all his dreams come true.

Our plane from Cape Town

Soon we were at Kasane Airport where we boarded a larger version of the same airline for our flight to Johannesburg, clear customs then catch a connecting flight to Durban and our ship. You may have noticed I said we traveled via the same airline as our trip to Victoria Falls. The same one who fed us the really good food. Well they delivered again on both of our flights.

The most disconcerting thing to me about all of Africa is that they all drive on the wrong side of the road!!! Why, they were not all British colonies. Even Mozambique, a Portuguese province until 1976 drives on the wrong side of the road. What's the reason?

There is so much more to tell about those five days, I suggest that none of you ask me about Africa after my return and for your sake DO NOT let me start with my pictures. My Fairy Tale five days have ended, book yours soon!

Today Is Someday! Go on Safari!